New York Fashion Week it's pretty much over... and there were few highlights. For me New York is where all the new talents are emerging, thanks specially to the CFDA but just as they come they go. I've heard once that nowadays fashion designers are not much designers but stylists, and New York Fashion Week is the best example, there is not that much designers doing a particular style or something that it's fresh, interesting and unique.
Heavy names in New York like Thakoon, Philip Lim, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Diane Von Furstenberg, Max Azria and Zac Posen, are each season terribly similar to me, they have the most wearable vision in fashion, and they create great separates. In my opinion, they have nice basics that season after season are styled in a different way for the current fashion show, according to international trends.
Don't get me wrong I'm not saying that fashion brands have to be all crazy, crafty and have huge shows. But they do need a strong forward looking aesthethic, that you can recognize. I wouldn't buy a 600 dollars sweater that looks just like any other J.Crew or Banana Republic that retails in 100, which have great quality, as well as the designer's. This season in NY in my opinion the strongest were: Altuzarra, Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Rodarte and Calvin Klein.
It was the second show for Joseph Altuzarra, and I think that he has portrayed what he can do for Fall with a dark lady-like but young (if that makes any sense) type of women, using mostly black and red, in total one color looks, I loved his red velvet, and having seams in the shoulders or cleavage almost completely open. I've never been a huge fan of Alexander Wang's work, however I must recognize that he was great transforming an urban trend into a signature look. This season he made the classic men pinstriped suit into all sorts of clothing, with an interesting result. Calvin Klein went for a minimal elegance that Francisco Costa is great with, and had nice options for working women, in a black, grey and white palette, without making it dull.
Proenza Schouler always aims a cool city girl and I think, Jack and Lazaro are relaxing for their second season on a row. They had a huge show portraying graffiti sprayed jeans, cool coats, one of the most amazing shoes of the season, and some minidresses with empire waists that I didn't particularly loved. Rodarte this season decided to tell the story of "maquiladora" workers in Juarez border of US and Mexico. Personally, I thought the show had more of a wild west side to it, some use of plaid and great knittings that seem to be old ladies tableclothes and blankets but look awesome as blouses, this may sound unpractical, and some of it totally was, but it also had the most quantity of wearable pieces, that any other. The show ended with heels that light up, and gorgeus white dresses under black lights, making them blue and Elvis Presley's "Blue Moon", gave me chils.