Miuccia can do no wrong. However sometimes collections for Prada are better and sometimes the ones for Miu Miu are, sometimes both. This season the show was a mindblowing experience, supposedly a minimalist show; it was inspired in colonial-baroque art with cherubins and classic ornaments printed on dresses, but also the Jazz Age sending out the models in short 30's hairdos with bananas and monkeys printed on the clothes and what look like a club illustration from that era. As elaborate as all this sounds, it was a minimal collection, there weren't a lot of layers and accesories, she's genius.
I could have keep on loving Rodarte's demi-couture techniques for many years to come, I'm a die hard fan and would keep on loving them no matter what (that's why tis top isn't very objectuive at all). But I do understand that a growing bussiness like hers couldn't just rely in the few gowns and handmade sweaters that have produed. This was a radical change for the label, as always inspired by California. The collection had a more wearable elaboration with: tons of skirts, long and short with one side open, great very high-waisted trousers, and beautiful dresses that had structure in one half and softness (draping) in the other to balance things up. One fabric that looked similar to tree bark stood out for me. It-s a very nice understandable step for the brand and I can-t wait to see what's next.
I have followed the work of Haider for quite a few time and it's always among my favorite. His roughness and workmanship of leather creates and unique vision in the industry but doesn't make it less feminine. This time the jewel like hues and fluid textiles helped him deliver one of his best works yet. The silhouette was the classic tight to the body with the exception of puffy bloomer shorts and the trail of some gowns, it also had the usual draped pieces that are almost a little too revealing but at the same time very avant-garde. This was a feast for your eyes, each outfit a lot more visually fascinating than the last.
These guys have become in my book, the experts in creating cool. I could write a lot more, but the way to get it it's to look closely at their work. A huge range of garments were presented, and although the collection achieved to show more "polished" looks, it still was fresh, young and desireable. I love them.
Let's face it, New York has a lot of shows that kind of look alike. But since it's clothes and fashion you checked them out anyway, and by the first half of Milan shows it gets a little boring. Then comes Marni and you feel the excitemen again. The collection was fun as always, colorful and had a lot of prints, but also sportgear inspired pieces like short trunks and long tops with stripes in matching color, each girl had kind of an aviator cap that completed the whole feel, less ladylike than in the past.