Top Spring 2011 Collections part. 3

1.-Prada:
Miuccia can do no wrong. However sometimes collections for Prada are better and sometimes the ones for Miu Miu are, sometimes both. This season the show was a mindblowing experience, supposedly a minimalist show; it was inspired in colonial-baroque art with cherubins and classic ornaments printed on dresses, but also the Jazz Age sending out the models in short 30's hairdos with bananas and monkeys printed on the clothes and what look like a club illustration from that era. As elaborate as all this sounds, it was a minimal collection, there weren't a lot of layers and accesories, she's genius.

2.-Rodarte:
I could have keep on loving Rodarte's demi-couture techniques for many years to come, I'm a die hard fan and would keep on loving them no matter what (that's why tis top isn't very objectuive at all). But I do understand that a growing bussiness like hers couldn't just rely in the few gowns and handmade sweaters that have produed. This was a radical change for the label, as always inspired by California. The collection had a more wearable elaboration with: tons of skirts, long and short with one side open, great very high-waisted trousers, and beautiful dresses that had structure in one half and softness (draping) in the other to balance things up. One fabric that looked similar to tree bark stood out for me. It-s a very nice understandable step for the brand and I can-t wait to see what's next.

3.-Haider Ackermann:
I have followed the work of Haider for quite a few time and it's always among my favorite. His roughness and workmanship of leather creates and unique vision in the industry but doesn't make it less feminine. This time the jewel like hues and fluid textiles helped him deliver one of his best works yet. The silhouette was the classic tight to the body with the exception of puffy bloomer shorts and the trail of some gowns, it also had the usual draped pieces that are almost a little too revealing but at the same time very avant-garde. This was a feast for your eyes, each outfit a lot more visually fascinating than the last.

4.-Proenza Schouler:
These guys have become in my book, the experts in creating cool. I could write a lot more, but the way to get it it's to look closely at their work. A huge range of garments were presented, and although the collection achieved to show more "polished" looks, it still was fresh, young and desireable. I love them.

5.- Marni:
Let's face it, New York has a lot of shows that kind of look alike. But since it's clothes and fashion you checked them out anyway, and by the first half of Milan shows it gets a little boring. Then comes Marni and you feel the excitemen again. The collection was fun as always, colorful and had a lot of prints, but also sportgear inspired pieces like short trunks and long tops with stripes in matching color, each girl had kind of an aviator cap that completed the whole feel, less ladylike than in the past.

Top Spring 2011 Collections part. 2

6.-Balenciaga:

Nicolas Ghuèsquiere presented the most urban collection yet to the house he is in charge of. That in no case meant less luxury, just that inspiration clearly came from punk and rock. Houndstooth was stretched into a big motif that covered coats, square long vests and skirts. Then short leather jackets were paired with long blouses and ankle length black pants with flat black shoes. It was the most masculine show I could think of from Balenciaga, but the result was intriguing and very well accomplished.

7.-Jil Sander:

Raf Simons is in a good place at Jil Sander, the last collection was interesting, but this time he decided to use bright colors, kind of his thing and the result was amazing. Puffy long skirts with simple white tees where the first to come out, then some long dresses with round puffy skirts and last separates, anoraks, jackets, trousers and more skirts with long coats. Imagine all of this pieces in the most basic hues, yellow, tangerine, grape, raspberry, and a vibrant oversized flower print. Raf Simons said he inspired in couture as a response to minimalism, and the silhouettes were somewhere in that level, but it still was clean look, where less is more.

8.-Lanvin:

Here is where all I write gets less formal and it's just pure love, look at the pictures above and everyone can immediately get the appeal of the clothes. The show was as summery and feminine as Lanvin can get, but it was still strong and minimal, all of the embroidery was almost gone. The textures and the color palette had a wide range but overall let's say he did tan, nude, brown, beige, red, raspberry, midnight blue and some neon hues with black. That's all...

9.-Rick Owens:

Everyone said this show was all about maturity and restraint, it's true. Rick Owens a famous designer for the younger fashion crowd has proven his aesthetic season after season, but this show was much needed, the models came out in a simpler hair do and makeup letting you really notice the clothes. A lot of long skirts and dresses also came in less intricate silhouettes, but the necklines and details in each garment could tell you it was signature Owens.

10.-Junya Watanabe:

He made an essay out of nautical stripes, along with printed marine motifs and complementary straw hats. The collection had great wearable pieces, something hard to find sometimes in Junya's conceptual shows, but it never demeaned the overall strength of the show. It was truly creative since stripes have been everywhere and almost all has been already shown, but the way he played with all the different lengths and layers left room for interpretation, some even assumed it was also jail uniform inspired.

Top Spring 2011 Collections

I'll start backwards as I always do in a set of 5 this time:

11.- Celine:
There's no doubt that Phoebe has in very few seasons consolidated her concept as a general trend among the whole industry. Her influence is everywhere and this collection has the strength to keep the public intrigued, you can see her slowly adventuring into new techniques like the use of knitwear, without going to fast and I think it's the best way to go.

12.- Mary Katrantzou:
Mary Katrantzou is a somewhat new designer from London, with prints and bold use of colors. In one of the most creative concepts I've seen in a while, she made prints with photographs of luxurious houses interiors; posh living rooms, or colorful dinning rooms. The accesories completed the whole look by hanging like chandeliers in the top. The great thing was that besides the prints, the cut of the dresses could stand on their own, and there were also shorts and other separates like lampshades skirts.

13.- Kenzo:
If you have read me, you could have infered that Antonio Marras work for Kenzo has grown on me, and this was a particular important show because it was the house 40th anniversary. The collection besides the usual great sense of color and clashing prints, was an interesting mix of Asian and European way of dressing. Two concepts completely opposite that gave tons of light layers and lengths with a provenzal touch.

14.- Comme des Garçons:
Rei Kawakubo is one of the few who doesn't care. Her brand has never been about bussiness and trying to make people understand and buy the clothes. She therefore, designs without any restraint so it is always intriguing. For Spring, dresses or coat were literally done from other dresses and coats, a side panel from a dress was a whole dress just sewn in that section, it's someting similar to what she has done, like paper dolls.

15.- Dries Van Noten:
There's such an ease on a Dries Van Noten collection, it's all about clothes that you inmediatly want to wear. As much as I appreciate a great concept, when someone does conceptual and commercial with this hability, I'm in. This time the show had 2 different characteristics, roomy square jackets nd pastel florals that wear inspired from melamine china, as a result the jackets delivered tailored while flowy satin dresses and separates in these prints gave softness.

McQueen of the Future

The death of Alexander McQueen was perhaps, the most shocking moment for contemporary fashion. However, in these days everything is about business and almost instantly Sarah Burton became the new creative director of the brand. She among other things, helped finish the last collection Mr. McQueen created, then she did resort and now the first complete ready-to-wear collection was shown on Schedule in Paris Fashion Week for Spring 2011.

Spring 2010.

Acknowledging she has a huge burden on her shoulders, Sarah thinks that as a woman the brand during her reign will become a softer less theatrical version of the original creator. After all, she really is the best possible option to carry on with the house design, since she worked for almost 15 years with him. For Spring, it showed. The inspiration came from some organic place, and all the signature McQueen silhouettes were worked in and adapted to go with the theme of the show. Rigid short dresses with the origami-like folds and pleats were done in a printed yellow leaves fabric, sharp jackets, tailor coats and ultra low trousers were done in white and navy, the ones in navy were embroidered with gold leaves. Other pieces included monarch butterflies, raffia-like straw, and feathers, a gown was done entirely in feathers, on top short wide ones and marabou on the trail.

Spring 2008

Everything did felt less intricate, but talking about McQueen doesn’t mean plain at all. And of course the shoes were also signature creations, with the highest heel or platform possible; booties, sandals and wedges in black cream and gold were a nice contrast to the concrete runway with grass sprouts on the unions of each plaque.

Spring 2009

Though it was a nice first show, every look that came out of the runways was a silhouette already done in a previous collection, let’s say from 2005- to the past Spring. And let’s be honest, the inspiration was not that strong to help her develop a greater show, Sarah certainly has proved to be up for the job and maintain the great standards of quality still delivering some semi-couture looks, but for the next shows her innovations for the brand need to be presented, as well.

Spring 2008

Each look from the left (Spring 2011) is compared to a past Spring collection.

Monday Inspiration Board

We are already caught in Spring 2011 show season, and Fall just went by terribly fast. As always, soon I'll post my top 15 collections. Since it's been ages since I last wrote something, it feels right to do a Inspiration Board, I know there's one just right below this, but it's been a lot of time between each one and I think I'm feelingcompletely different.

It's all red, there's something very powerful in that color. Instantly gives a sense of love or at least sensuality, therefore just expressing self-esteem and empowerment. Pics come from Vogue Nippon (Malgosia by Cédric Buchet and Eniko by Camilla Akrans), Vogue Italia (Mariacarla by Meisel), Numéro (Ginta by Greg Kadel) and Harper's UK ( Lily by Guy Aroch), red cardinals and a dusty landscape.

Layering Styling

I love magazines that dare to break a total look from a runway show and portray exclusively the stylist's interpretation of the clothes. That proves in my opinion, that clothes can stand alone and represent the brand without the need of a complete outfit. Though every wardrobe needs basics, I do believe that they are not really worthy of investing as much money as you should in a statement piece from a designer, that would be use to higlight the most simple outfit. I don't believe in buying 500 dlls. jeans or plain t-shirts.

So this is just for fun, breaking random runway looks and do tons of layers which give a nomadic finish, playing with proportions of outerwear and using skirts or dresses with all kinds of lenghts. I hope you like it.

First: Viktor & Rolf coat, Missoni neckpiece, Prada dress, Rick Owens tights and boots.
Second: Lanvin fur coat, Missoni long vest, Stella McCartney dress, Ann Demeulemeester skirt and boots.
Third: Nina Ricci coat, Dior vest, Proenza Schouler vest, Ohne Titel dress, Dries Van Noten pants and heels.
Forth: Balmain coat, Miu Miu dress, Rodarte skirt, Rag & Bone socks and boots.

A bohemian post

Posts have been low during summer, but it's the only chance I have for spending time with all of my friends on the same city, and have a few short trips. Now things are slowly going back to normal and so I expect the posts here.

Today I want to write about how sometimes there's this huge trend for a while and everyone seems focused not only in makig clothes in this aesthethic, but also allow it to be the main topic on editorials and guide the cycle of fashion for a few seasons. The current trend is the reinvented minimalism with military details. It was great when phoebe did it and that in a few time it could become such a success, I totally get the appeal, it's comfortable, easy to wear, usually separates, nice shapes, and most of the time neutral colors.

As much as I love this idea of clothes to live in, that would get old with you and always give a polished finish to your outfit, let's face it; it doesn't show the crazyness and theatricality one would expect from the best designers of the world. That's why sometimes you don't really need anymore of what everyone else is doing, and one turns to unexpected creators.

Antonio Marras in Kenzo has done a good job bringing the legacy of the brand ahead, and all that things we say about new designers in old houses. But recently that job has really stepped up to a good zone. His fall collection had the common bohemian influence, but was achieved by mixing patchwork from awesome silk printed fabrics in maxi dresses and tons of layers, capes, coats, blouses, foulards and vests in loose silhouettes that if it makes sense looked like a 70's Poiret inspired look. The campaign was shot by Sorrenti which is always a good thing.

For resort Antonio Marras presented a fun and colorful collection with flowered print blouses, trousers and short kimono-like dresses. There was also gorgeous knitwear in color-blocking blue, fucsia, turquoise and orange and for accesories modern obi belts that cinched the flowy fabrics perfectly.

I think it's remarkable to create clothes that look current and can be worn today but without compromising your specific vision to a wider trend, there are great separates in both colections who can create a clearer look, but the styling definitely helps to express otherwise. One could only hope that he remains in this path and gets the success the brand deserves.

Sunday Inspiration Board

I'm completely attracted to 80's fashion, though most of the time over-the-top, women were unafraid, powerful, and confident. Their beauty came from an intelectual place instead of the obvious cleavage showing, and for me that woman smelled like Yves Saint Laurent Opium and wore bright lipstick.

A Mistery

Few information is available about a woman who I deeply admire and respect. It's a bit unfair how women in fashion have stand out, every wannabe fashionista knows who Anna Wintour or Anna Dello Russo is, but there are tones of people on the magazine world also which are doing great stuff and sometimes have had even more influence in today's design but have succesfully stayed under the radar. That woman is Babeth Dijan editor-in-chief of my favorite fashion magazine Numéro.

She started her personal project in 1983 a French magazine called Jill that only published 11 issues until 1985. The magazine reflected the new wave of french design, raising stars like: Jean Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaïa and Thierry Mugler but also the arrival of Japanese designers to the fashion capital. Regular contributors of the publication were Peter Lindbergh, Jean-Baptiste Mondino and Ellen Von Unwerth. The project started with the support of a modelling agency and the idea was to use the agency's people, which often didn't happened, it had no real advertisers and most of the editorials were done on Babeth's grandmother athic.

This feel of playing fashion is what makes Numéro, the magazine she started in 1998 , so different from the oters. The reason for starting it was to make something appealing to powerful and strong women that featured fashion but also art, design and music instead of the new wrinkle cream, and how to catch a man. There's few evidence for people in the third world about that magazine but I've been lucky to find this photos online.

Jill Magazine (France) October November 1985
Mannequins Kim, Kristen, Laurence
Photography Peter Lindbergh
Réalisation E. Dijan, M. Cohen et Tanel

Random comeback

I've written tons of times that the most interesting career in fashion for me is to be a Stylist or Creative Director for magazine editorials. Many people don't understand the meaning of this concept unless you are involved with fashion. Each magazine has a target and therefore, a way of portraying clothes differently, many times the same clothes could have a playful, youthful aproach or a sober, ready for work one. Besides one must consider the concept or story that you develop along with the photographer, wether the photos are being shot in location at a gorgeous beach or inside a studio with fluorescent props and blue lighting.

All this sounds good written but let's make it a little more practical, here are few looks from some designers that were featured in several editorials, I'll post it as it came down the runway and then how each stylist use it for a shoot.

Look from Valentino Fall 2011

1. Interview June/July
Megan Fox
Potographer: Craig McDean
Fashion Editor: Karl Templer

2. Vogue Italia July 2010
Model: Christy Turlington
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Fashion Editor: Karl Templer

Look from Prada Fall 2011

1. UK Vogue August
Stylist: Kate Phelan
Model: Karlie Kloss
Photographer: Daniel Jackson

2. Vogue Paris August
Stylist: Carine Roitfeld
Model: Freja Beha Erichsen
Photographer: David Sims

3. US Harper's Bazaar June/July
Stylist: Brana Wolf
Model: Jacquelyn Jablonski
Photographer: Camilla Akrans

Look from Balenciaga Fall 2011

1. US Vogue July 2010
Patricia van der Vliet shot by Raymond Meier, styled by Elissa Santisi
Scanned by Elfinkova

2. US Harper's Bazaar June / July 2010
Jacquelyn Jablonski shot by Camilla Akrans, styled by Brana Wolf
Scanned by behansu

3. Vogue Nippon September 2010
Anna Maria Jagodzinska shot by Mark Segal, styled by Ludivine Poiblanc