jueves, 29 de abril de 2010

The New Valentino

Fashion on the outside may appear as a glamorous and incredible world, and on the surface it is. But it's also a bussiness and the whole objective of runway, magazines, models, beauty and clothes (specially for the big stablished houses owned by investors and giant corporations) is to sell.

Chanel, Balenciaga, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent to name a few have found a succesful creative director that can make both, commercial pieces but also respect the legacy of the house where they work. This houses are on the safe side of the fence, because their creative directors have made a career inside and have it all figured out.

On the other side we have houses that have struggled to find commercial success balanced with a strong creative direction: Rochas, Nina Ricci, Ungaro, and finally Valentino.

When Valentino left the house in 2007 Alessandra Facchinetti was the chosen one for carrying the legacy of Mr. Garavanni, but after just two seasons she was out. Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri are now, after Alessandra the creative directors of Valentino. For a few seasons they were playing it safe, just triying to honor the brand, but after the Spring 2010 collection, Valentino was on a different direction.

The brand now aims to a younger audience, and has make bolder and daring choices. I thought that the Couture 2010 collection was completely new from what they have been doing, people said that it was referential from other designers like Nicolas Ghesquiere, because of a futuristic-tribal theme, but at the same time it felt romantic and it's what the house needs.

I think that Valetino has found their new designers and are here to stay...

First photo Valentino S/S 2010, all the others Spring Couture 2010.

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